By Noma Faingold
It's about 10:30 a.m. on a recent Sunday and pastry chef Philippe Delarue is putting the finishing touches on a tray of Napoleons in his kitchen. They don't resemble typical Napoleons. Like any artist, he puts his own spin on the flaky, puff pastry confection by displaying them on their sides, before methodically topping them with tall, sculpted swirls of whipped cream.
His weekend-only bakery business, Patisserie on California, which launched at the height of the pandemic in May 2020, has virtually taken over his Outer Richmond three-bedroom flat. The dining room is a staging area with an aluminum sheet pan rack filled with shelves of glossy pear and apricot tarts. On the dining table, a stack of French cookbooks shares the surface with decadent desserts, such as key lime and chocolate/caramel tartlets, ganache-covered Pain de Gênes, ganache-laced brownies, colorful mini macarons and chocolate éclairs.
Delarue, born in Le Mans, France, has been up since 1 a.m. preparing the most perishable of the 30-plus choices he offers every weekend in front of his garage, under a light blue awning. A line is already forming, as the small staff walks down the stairs and carefully displays the desserts on cloth-covered tables. This weekend's specials are pavlova with mixed fresh fruits and a savory to-go lunch of ratatouille paired with the smoothest polenta triangles you may ever taste.
A line of customers eye tempting treats as they wait their turn to purchase Philippe Delarue's culinary works of art. Photos by Noma Faingold.
On Saturday and Sunday, the bakery is open from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., and the French fare sells out nearly every weekend. Delarue estimates 80% of sales comes from repeat customers. "People come every week, sometimes both days," he said. "We know their names. We talk. We know what they like. Some always get the same things."
Delarue, after helming a bakery, Patisserie Philippe, in the design district on Townsend Street for five years and then a wholesale bakery business for another five years, decided he no longer wanted partners. If he was going to work 60 to 80 hours each week (and almost never taking a vacation), he wanted to work for himself. And why not run it out of his apartment, where he has lived for 15 years?
"This apartment is becoming a bakery," he said. "I have the best landlord. How many landlords would let their tenant open a business in front of the building?"
The community has embraced Patisserie on California, located one block from the exquisitely tiled Lincoln Park Steps.
"I wanted to be part of the community and help the community because it was at the time of the pandemic," Delarue said. "This is a really nice neighborhood, where people like to socialize. At the time, everybody was afraid to get together. Selling outside made it easier."
It took about a year to gain a following, according to Nipuna Rajapaksh, who has worked with Delarue for two years, handling non-kitchen duties, including shopping runs, selling, administrative (securing permits and accounting) and social media (Instagram: @patisserieoncalifornia). A turning point occurred after a March 2022 TikTok video by creator @taybeepboop went viral. Suddenly, there were consistently 30 to 40 people lining up ahead of the 11 a.m. opening hour.
"Of course, we didn't have enough food for everybody when that happened," Delarue said.
Also drawing customers are the reasonable prices (a benefit of low-cost overhead) and the friendly staff, in addition to the variety and quality of the sumptuous pastries and desserts. Favorites include rich pastries like Napoleons and chocolate éclairs, as well as such breakfast staples as blueberry muffins, brioche loaves and a light, savory cheesy roll, known as gougéres (which has a similar texture to a popover).
Another charming touch is the way made-to-order packaged lunches are lowered from a first-floor window in a wicker basket to the kiosk.
It's not just people in the neighborhood who frequent Patisserie on California. There were customers from Pacifica, Seattle and Los Angeles on this particular Sunday. Lauren Woore, a pastry chef at Open Market in L.A., was excited to try a few items. She had heard about it from a San Francisco friend.
"I love that (Delarue) has the comfort of baking from his home and has the creative freedom," Woore said. When making her selections, she grinned when announcing, "This is research."
Devoted local customer, Blaire Einfalt, brought her Seattle-based father, Michael Einfalt, during one of his regular visits. They spent about $100 for a wide array of treats for the whole family.
"My job when I moved to San Francisco was to find the best bakeries. This is definitely the best. You can tell it's a passion project," said the UCSF student. "I could come every weekend and still not try everything."
Regular customer Blaire Einfalt, who lives in the Outer Sunset, with her father, Michael Einfalt, who was visiting from Seattle. Her favorites are the key lime tartlet and blueberry muffin. She said Patisserie on California is the best bakery in San Francisco. Below: Chocolate/caramel tartlets.
Delarue didn't go to traditional cooking school. Instead, he apprenticed at a patisserie in his home town, followed by nearly three years working in Paris at the celebrated culinary empire founded by pastry chef Gaston Lenôtre.
"That was the best way to train. I don't believe in school," he said. "In school you've got the oven and the fridge. Everything is working. In real life, it's different."
After stints in London and Montreal, Delarue came to the United States and eventually made his way to San Francisco in 2001. He has since become a U.S. citizen.
He said he is making a decent living with Patisserie on California but admits it's hard work.
"I don't do it for the money. I do it because I love it. I don't really have time for anything else. It takes my whole life," said Delarue. "This is not like selling girl scout cookies."
He's had offers to open another traditional storefront bakery, but he always declines.
"This is it. This is my last chance," Delarue said. "I don't want a partner. I don't want another bakery."
He does, however, have a retirement plan. It's about two years away and involves a return to France.
"I like working hard but I'm not 20 anymore," he said. "I'm going to buy a house in Brittany … on the beach."
Patisserie on California, 6833 California St. Hours: Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Advanced orders are taken by direct message through Instagram account @patisserieoncalifornia.
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